Breguet Classique models 7137 And 7337 Given New Lease of Life The beguiling art of guilloché elevates the dials of these iconic models to new heights by Rob NuddsMarch 17, 2020 MIN READBreguet Classique models 7137 And 7337 Given New Lease of Life
One of the finest arts in the world of watchmaking brings the new dials of the Breguet Classique 7137 and 7337 models to life. The time-honored craft of guilloché takes years to master. But for Breguet, the years of training required to operate these archaic machines, are clearly years well spent.
When a watch collection is defined by its adherence to traditional styles and values, the use of genuine craft techniques is essential. A guilloché dial, produced using a rose engine machine, is not just a beautiful object because of its aesthetics, but also because of the effort that has gone into making it. It is not possible, however tempting, to achieve the same effect via laser engraving or hydraulic stamping. While the angles and patterns could be replicated, the soul of the piece and the way the material’s character is better expressed through the painstaking excavation of engine turning is truly irreplicable.
Breguet knows this. And thus, Breguet has employed some of the finest rose engine operators on planet Earth to refresh references 7137 and 7337. The result? A pair of stunningly clean models in two very different colorways.
The king of dials
The rose gold-cased models boast silvered dials. The overall look is sharp and professional. For those seeking a more sophisticated affair, the “Breguet blue” dials housed in white gold cases are something rather special. The depth of the dials is further accentuated by the embossed moon set against the starry sky of the moon phase indication disc.
…a private joy for the owner alone.
In Breguet’s pursuit to produce the king of dials, a secret signature has been added to the display. Thankfully, it is far easier to see the small script on either side of the 6 o’clock marker on the press photos. In real life, this small treat can pass unnoticed — a private joy for the owner alone. And another treat for the owner can be seen beneath the 12 o’clock marker and immediately after the wordmark itself. A personal number (different for each piece) is engraved on the dial. This unusual characteristic marks each dial as unique. This identifying code also binds the dial to the movement that runs behind it.
Beauty by any name
Although it is easy to see the different types of finish on the new Breguet Classique dials, giving them their proper names is not something that can be achieved without a little research. If we take the 7137 for example (that’s the model with the long-handed power reserve right next to the 11 o’clock position) there are three separate finishes used. That prominent power reserve used a “panier maillé basket weave” pattern, while the date sub-dial at 6 o’clock employs a “damier checkerboard” backdrop. The main part of the dial is decorated with a “Clous de Paris hobnailing” pattern.
…the result is simply superb…
On the more symmetrical 7337, the dial is surrounded by a circular “grain d’orge”. The damier checkerboard appears once more. Once again it is used to distinguish a sub-register from the rest of the dial. Similarly, the Clous de Paris hobnailing is deployed in the center of the display. The combination of these three finishes may sound like a lot to take in but the result is simply superb — beauty by any name.
Breguet’s journey into the future
Both watches are powered by variants of the 502.3 automatic caliber. The 7137 used the DR1 configuration, and the 7337 the QSE1 layout. With its off-center rotor and skeletonized barrel, this caliber is remarkably slim. This release marks a fusion of old and new technologies and aesthetics. The skeletonized barrel is joined by an ultra-modern silicon hairspring. This continues Breguet’s journey into the future. Conversely, the dials honor the past.
This is certainly true of the 7337. Its layout is inspired by the Quarter-repeating Pocket Watch, reference 3833, by Breguet. A slightly slower operating frequency of 21,600vph is coupled with a sufficient power reserve of 45 hours. These new entrants in the Breguet Classique catalog are delivered on alligator leather straps with solid gold folding buckles. Learn more about Breguet and these new releases here.
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About the author
Rob’s first exposure to the watch industry was a part-time retail role for the Signet Group at the age of 17. An obsession with watches soon developed. Following an ill-advised BSc in Archaeological Science, he applied for sponsorship to undertake… read more
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