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Following two successful releases, the limited-edition Direnzo DRZ_03 “Eclipse” watch takes to Kickstarter looking to make it a hat-trick for the Geneva-based microbrand. Founded in 2015 by Sergio Godoy Di Renzo, the Swiss company is adding a dive watch to its catalog for the first time. The DRZ_03 Eclipse draws influence from the famous dive watches of the 1960s (specifically the Breguet ref. 1646, Omega Seamaster 300, and Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea) while bringing the design up to date with an unusual dial design that simulates a solar eclipse.
A sunburst fumé outer ring, to which the applied luminous hour markers are fitted, is interrupted by a circle of solid color, creating a corona effect in the center of the dial. While the colorways evoke a distinctly vintage vibe, the stark break to either black or navy blue in the middle of the dial gives these pieces a more modern edge. The sharpness of the transition from the fade to a block color was achieved by splitting the dial into two parts, which adds further texture and nuance to the display. Two colors are currently available — a black-gray design with old radium Super-LumiNova and a black sapphire bezel, and a navy-royal fade with a dark blue sapphire insert — and a third is being considered for release.
Where the previously released DRZ_02 model used a sandwich dial, the DRZ_03 is fitted with applied indices to keep the watch as slim as possible. This not only improves the way the watch wears but also adds welcome depth and legibility to the dial. Additionally, the dial has a slight bowl shape, which is reminiscent of its forerunner. To achieve this effect, Direnzo relied on CNC modeling, which is far more time-consuming and costly than using a simple flat disc. The date (when present) has been positioned at 6 o’clock for symmetry.
Continuing the throwback aesthetic is the sapphire bezel insert, which uses simple block markers as opposed to Arabic or Roman numerals. This pared-back design allows the ambitious dial design to breathe, without appearing cluttered or hemmed in. Its narrow diameter aims to strike a balance between subtlety and utility.
Powering the Direnzo DRZ_03 Eclipse watch is the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1, which boasts a 38-hour power reserve and a 28,800vph operating frequency. Assembly and first quality control checks take place in Direnzo’s headquarters in Geneva before every model passes through the hands and under the watchful eye of the brand founder.
The cases measure 40mm across, 12.5mm-thick, and 48mm from lug-to-lug. Made from 316L stainless steel and water-resistant to 200m, the Direnzo DRZ_03 has been designed to be worn on a daily basis. A closed caseback with an engraved design enhances the movement’s protection. To enable customers to get the look they desire, the Eclipse is supplied with a 316L stainless steel bracelet with fitted end-links and diver extension clasp and a Marine Nationale nylon strap (Parachute style). A Tropic Rubber strap will also be available as an optional add-on (that will be included in the package if certain campaign targets are met before the conclusion). The Kickstarter campaign launched on February 12th, 2020, with prices starting at $499 (in comparison to a final retail price of $699). To learn more about the brand, head over to direnzowatches.com.
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