With a distinctive and vibrant design largely unchanged since its 1967 introduction, the Doxa Sub 300 series is perhaps one of the most easily recognizable diver models in the current watch market. Although the brand has kept the core concept remarkably true to its roots over the years, Doxa still leaves room for interpretation with this formula in its lineup, and perhaps no experiment in recent years has been met with as much fanfare as 2020’s Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers. The interpretation of this iconic ‘60s form into ultramodern carbon composite was a risky play that resonated wildly with enthusiasts, but a limited production run and relatively steep price tag kept that model out of the hands of many. Doxa returns to this advanced material for 2021, delivering a full standard production run of carbon Sub 300 models in the complete rainbow of the brand’s varied dial colors. The new Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC series offers an intriguing mix of old and new, combining the classic C-case Doxa design language with an aggressive and modern new material to create a fresh and utilitarian modern tool diver concept.
The 42.5mm case of the Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC is rendered in tough matte black forged carbon. While the sloping, rounded case shape and unusual twin ring decompression bezel are carried over from stainless steel models, the new material gives these components a fresher, more aggressive character without entirely sacrificing the vintage feel. In addition to light weight and rigidity, the forged carbon material gives the Sub 300 Carbon COSC an almost Damascus steel-like appearance in changing light, with striations in the random pattern of fibers catching light and brightening to medium-gray over the black backdrop in initial images. Four of the six colorways punch up this black and gray palette with orange highlights on the bezel’s outer decompression scale, while the Divingstar and Aquamarine match their respective dials with yellow and turquoise accents. Doxa equips the Sub 300 Carbon COSC with a titanium screw-down caseback, helping the watch to reach a solid 300 meters of water resistance.
The dial designs for the Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC series are pure classic Sub 300, with the line’s unique disproportionate baton hands, crosshair dial accents, and squared-off printed indices, all designed for maximum underwater legibility at a glance. All six of the brand’s signature dial colorways are present here, from the iconic orange dial Professional to the deep matte navy dial Caribbean with orange accents, the serious and simple black dial Sharkhunter, the silver sunburst dial Searambler, the vibrant sunny yellow of the Divingstar, and the fittingly named turquoise dial of the Aquamarine. While the dial designs themselves are not strictly new, the new case material has profound effects on the way these colorways present in initial images. With a dark and striated new base to work with, Doxa’s bright pops of color appear to adapt best, with the Professional, Divingstar, and Aquamarine all fitting well within the more modern sporting theme. The versatility of black allows the Sharkhunter to shine in this new material as well, offering a more tactical and subdued riff on the concept.
Like other members of the Sub 300 family, Doxa powers the Sub 300 Carbon COSC with the ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. The venerable 2824-2 has made its way into countless watches from across the industry, but Doxa adds in-house decoration (sadly hidden behind a solid caseback) and has each movement COSC chronometer-certified for accuracy. Outside of accuracy, performance is standard for the 2824-2, with a slightly low 38-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate.
In keeping with the more modern, purposeful concept, Doxa does not offer the Sub 300 Carbon COSC on its signature beads-of-rice bracelet. Instead, the brand pairs the series with curved end rubber straps, flowing directly into the lines of the case. Each of the six dial variants can be paired with a black rubber strap, or, for a higher-impact look, with a strap matching the dial color. These straps are fitted with PVD titanium deployant clasps with diver’s extensions.
The new Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC is proof positive of the nuanced and cascading character of watch design. By changing one element in its iconic formula, the brand has given its signature line a fresh, more modern, and more aggressive personality that deftly blends contemporary and vintage influences. The Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC is available now through authorized dealers at an MSRP of 3,790 CHF. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.