Most Doxa fans think of the Doxa SUB 300 timepiece collection (aBlogtoWatch review) when thinking about designs from the famed historic diver’s watch brand. One of its newer styles is the SUB 200 collection, which comes in a three-hand Doxa SUB 200 variant (aBlogtoWatch review here), and now this SUB 200 C-Graph (chronograph) variant which aBlogtoWatch debuted back in 2020 here. Doxa has had other chronograph models in the recent past including the SUB 300T-Graph, and the SUB 200 T-Graph, which each have design details that are carried over to the SUB 200 C-Graph.
Doxa produces each of its SUB 200 and SUB 200 C-Graph watches with (currently) six dial color variants and either on a color-matching rubber strap or this “beads of rice” matching steel bracelet. This particular SUB 200 C-Graph model is the reference 7184.108.40.206, which is the SUB 200 C-Graph with the metal bracelet and the Aquamarine-colored dial. It is very bright and friendly, and a color that I think will be popular with men’s sports watches for at least a few years. For those with more conservative tastes, the SUB 200 C-Graph is also available with black, yellow, orange, dark blue, and silver-toned dials.
The SUB 200 C-Graph is a very nice watch with some quirks, as well as a lot of personality. It is classically charming as a sports watch — functional-looking, with a heavy steel case that has been lovingly polished and brushed, and with a bold look to the face. Fans have enjoyed Doxa products for so long specifically because of these attributes. Doxa watches are supposed to be a bit loud, supposed to be stubborn in their designs insofar that they need to all relate to one another, and should have a real sense of playfulness to them. What also characterizes Doxa products is the fact that the brand has a serious tool watch history in the dive watch space. That means the wearers of Doxa products tend to be both more on the active side, as well as more invested in watch history.
The SUB 200 C-Graph’s steel case is big and heavy, but it wears comfortably when properly sized on the bracelet. While the “beads of rice” bracelet is handsome, the more practical option for actual diving or sports is probably the matching Aquamarine-toned rubber strap. The case is water-resistant to 200 meters and is 45mm-wide, just over 17mm-thick, and has a 49mm lug-to-lug distance. That means the lugs are stubby, allowing this big watch to fit on most wrists. The case doesn’t appear as thick as it does due to the box-style sapphire crystal over the dial. Doxa watches that don’t use this vintage-style visual trick end up visually appearing much thicker.
On the bracelet, the case has a visual problem because the lugs are steeper than the bracelet. To fix this problem, Doxa will either need to redesign the case or the bracelet. The latter is probably a wiser option. They can make a different shape for the end-link on the bracelet. The bracelet itself is comfortable, but it is also simple — lacking any sophisticated sizing or quick-release features that buyers today increasingly expect from dive watches priced over $2,000.
The Doxa logo is on both the crown (in orange) and also etched on the rear of the case. Correctly, the brand leaves the logo off of the dial. Aside from the inviting blue dial color, the face of the watch is all function but looks upmarket given the applied hour markers and the slight gloss of the black coating on the hands and hour markers. One of the best upmarket features of the watch is the use of a sapphire crystal both over the dial and for the cap on the rotating bezel insert. Sapphire crystal is highly scratch resistant (more so than ceramic) and makes an ideal (though expensive) material on a rotating bezel, as well as for a crystal.
Inside the watch is likely a Swiss Made ETA 2892 automatic chronograph movement or equivalent. Doxa doesn’t specify the movement on its website (which is a bit odd). The movement has about 48 hours of power reserve operating at 4Hz. While the movement has a date complication in it, Doxa chose not to have a date window on the dial, which allows it to have a more symmetrical, purist look that watch enthusiasts typically prefer.
What the Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph does better than the SUB 300 is present a design that is a bit more mainstream yet clearly “for the watch guy.” It has enough personality through fun dial colors and vintage-style functionality to satisfy a broader range of tastes than the great-but-quirkier SUB 300 family. The SUB 200 C-Graph is also not too high-priced and presents a fair value proposition. That said, the diver’s watch space in the $2,500 – $3,000 is still very (very) competitive. People who have been eyeing a watch in this color, or who have simply not found a Doxa that has pleased them yet, should take a close look at the SUB 200 C-Graph. It is especially good for actual active types who want more than a mere desk diver, but who don’t want to wear something more ordinary. Doxa has a small number of quirks to work out in the package — that is for sure — but the SUB 200 C-Graph is nonetheless a fun and highly competent watch that timepiece enthusiasts won’t’ find challenging to enjoy. Price for the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph on a rubber strap is $2,750 and on the matching steel bracelet it is $2,790 USD. Learn more at the Doxa website here.