Ulysse Nardin is clearly in the course of an import restructuring course of and updating most of its emblematic watches. After new watches in the Marine collection, it was time for the Diver to get a brisker look. Following final yr’s evolutions on the 3-hand fashions, the model now comes up with three new but immediately recognizable Diver Chronographs. Nonetheless imposing, nonetheless daring, nonetheless unmistakably Ulysse Nardin, the brand new chronos profit from the most recent design improve and jettison plenty of ballast in favour of a lighter, extra streamlined and modern look.
Final yr, Ulysse Nardin unveiled its redesigned Diver Chronometer, a pared-down and extra modern method to its flamboyant Divers of the previous. Should you look again at this restricted version Monaco Yacht Show 2016 Diver Chronograph, emblazoned like a stars and stripes flag and with sufficient ornamental particulars to maintain most sharks at bay, you possibly can clearly recognize the evolution. Much less is extra appears to be the brand new line of pondering at UN, and the most recent Diver Chronograph fashions decide up on design cues from the just lately revamped Diver Chronometer 42mm with a extra restrained method to ornament.
Just like the 2016 chronograph, the most recent Diver Chronographs measure 44mm and are geared up with the identical UN-150 computerized calibre – which means that the format of the sub-dials and place of the pushers is equivalent – and are clearly nonetheless waterproof to 300m.
A Extra modern take
Trying on the outdated and 2019 chronographs aspect by aspect you possibly can see how the serrated shark fin-style bezel of the sooner mannequin has been exchanged for a extra simple bezel with 12 notches and the way the lugs have grow to be extra streamlined, abandoning the stepped characteristic. The unidirectional bezel is concave now and options raised numerals and markers with Tremendous-LumiNova on the 0. The bezel can also be barely thicker, and though it nonetheless has a rubber insert, it drops the wavy sample. By the way, the bezel makes a pleasant clicking sound when turned. The crown guards are much less outstanding and the brand new Diver Chronograph additionally removes the polished surfaces on the previous diver chronograph and goes for a completely brushed, tool-watch end.
The tri-compax format is equivalent to the older fashions however, as soon as once more, toned right down to mirror the 2018 design mandates for the Divers. The busy background on a number of the earlier fashions is now changed with a grained floor and the hour markers and fingers (luminous, in fact) have been shortened and “deskeletonised”. The tachymetre scale (clearly a questionable selection on a dive watch) has been ditched and the chronograph counters simplified; even the hammerhead shark swimming within the 30-minute sub-dial at Three o’clock (or the inscription Marine Diver 1846) on a number of the limited-edition 2016 models has gone. One other element is the date window contained in the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, which has shrunk noticeably and been stripped of its magnifying lens.
The 2 titanium fashions, accessible with black or blue dials and matching rubber straps and rubberised bezel inserts, characteristic crimson chronograph fingers whereas the rose gold mannequin sticks to a extra sedate color scheme of golden and white particulars in opposition to a blue background. All three fashions have the hallmark steel insert on the rubber strap (in titanium or rose gold, relying on mannequin) with the model brand however you’ll discover that even the rubber strap has been revisited. As an alternative of the two-tone stripes on some older fashions, the straps of the brand new Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph stick to 1 color.
HAMMERHEAD SHARK LIMITED EDITION
With its daring color scheme of crimson and blue, the titanium mannequin with a blue dial and crimson accents is the liveliest of the pack and continues UN’s ongoing custom of blue and crimson Hammerhead particular editions. Purple is used to focus on the bezel joint, the chronograph seconds hand, the pushers, the Hammerhead Shark inscription on the dial and even the shark sculpted within the rubber strap. Restricted to 300 items, a plaque on the aspect of the case signifies the variety of the watch xx/300. The picture of a hammerhead shark – proven frontally and never in profile for a extra aggressive look – is engraved on the screw-down titanium caseback of the limited-edition mannequin.
UN Calibre 150
Though the limited-edition Hammerhead doesn’t reveal the motion, the 2 non-limited Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph have sapphire crystal casebacks. Under deck is the model’s in-house computerized, built-in, column-wheel chronograph motion with a 48-hour energy reserve. Because the precursors of the usage of silicon (silicium at UN) the escapement is constituted of silicon, it ticks at a contemporary 4Hz frequency.
Availability and Worth
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm Hammerhead Shark (reference 1503-170-3/93-HAMMER) is restricted to 300 items and retails for CHF 11,900. The non-limited Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm titanium/black mannequin (reference 1503-170-3/92) retails for CHF 11,500 and the non-limited Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm 18ok rose gold/blue (reference 1502-170-3/93) for CHF 38,500.
Extra particulars at ulysse-nardin.com.
Technical specs – Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm
44mm diameter – selection of titanium or rose gold – screwed-in crown and pushers – sapphire crystal dial – sealed titanium caseback on restricted version engraved with hammerhead shark, sapphire crystal on non-limited editions – unidirectional rotating bezel with black or blue rubber insert – 300m water-resistance
blue or black with a grained end
luminous hour markers and fingers
Calibre UN-150 – in-house computerized built-in column-wheel chronograph – silicium escapement – 48h energy reserve – 28,800vph – hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
restricted version: blue rubber strap with titanium insert and crimson shark
non-limited editions: selection of rubber strap, steel bracelet or material
Hammerhead Shark Restricted Version of 300 items: 1503-170-3/93-HAMMER
black and titanium: 1503-170-3/92
blue and rose gold: 1502-170-3/93
Restricted version Hammer CHF 11,900
black and titanium CHF 11,500
blue and rose gold CHF 38,500Original Article