In the event you look too shortly on the newest launch from Kari Voutilainen, you is likely to be tricked into considering its a wholly new timepiece for the Finnish watchmaking maestro. Given the identify 28ti, the watch incorporates a model new execution for Voutilainen, but it ought to really feel fairly acquainted for the Kari devoted. In the event you haven’t guessed but, that’s as a result of a lot of the watch’s motion — which is seen from the dial aspect, a primary for Voutilainen — is taken from the Vingt-Eight development that’s simply distinguishable as a result of extra-large stability wheel discovered within the 28ti’s top-left nook.
The caseback of the Voutilainen 28ti options operating seconds and an influence reserve show.
Evaluate the motion structure of the 28ti with the standard Vingt-Eight development (pictured right here).
The Vingt-Eight is probably going essentially the most well-known Voutilainen timepiece and has been part of the watchmaker’s catalog since 2011. When it was launched eight years in the past, it was the primary Voutilainen watch to be absolutely designed, developed and produced in-house. For the 28ti, fairly than function a dial produced at Comblémine, Voutilainen’s industry-renowned dial workshop, the watch subverts your expectations by showcasing the motion structure on the entrance. Regardless of the motion having actually been flipped from the within out, the watch remains to be pretty legible at a look. Operating alongside the periphery of the watch is an hour and minute monitor, and the watch’s Breguet-style fingers are in line with earlier Vingt-Eight iterations. On the watch’s caseback, Voutilainen has shifted expectations as soon as once more as a result of presence of a operating seconds show and an influence reserve indicator that reveals off the mannequin’s 65 hours of operating autonomy. This association is, once more, totally new for Voutilainen; for collectors, it provides some extra hidden performance whereas letting the core timekeeping features stay in concentrate on the dial aspect.
The aforementioned extra-large stability wheel permits for exact regulation of the watch to inside a strict set of tolerances. When Voutilainen unveiled the Vingt-Eight motion development in 2011, he was the primary to make use of a singular sort of stability spring that incorporates a Phillips overcoil on the outside of the spring and the much less widespread inner Grossmann curve. Whereas the caliber contained in the Vingt-Eight is used as a base, it needed to be barely reconstructed for utilization within the 28ti. Moreover, Voutilainen and his workforce have utilized a singular escapement wheel configuration that gives a direct impulse to the stability by means of an impulse curler/jewel. The consequence of this development is elevated vitality effectivity when in comparison with a conventional Swiss Lever Escapement. In line with Voutilainen, the Vingt-Eight and its subsequent iterations have been the primary timepieces to make use of such a configuration.
One of many fast positives of this dial orientation is that it permits for the depth of the motion structure and, extra importantly, Voutilainen’s superlative hand ending to be on full show. The surfaces of the pinions and wheels are utterly flat and extremely polished to inside exceptionally uniform tolerances. All ending work on the principle plate and bridges, each made from German Silver, are by hand to attain the very best doable ranges of floor end. The screws and all metal elements are completed and polished by hand. The titanium case is made by the workshop that Voutilainen helped set up, Voutilainen & Cattin.
Whereas the 28ti provides those who have all the time needed to position Voutilainen’s beautiful actions entrance and heart the possibility to take action, inside the canon of Voutilainen, the 28ti is a tough watch to pin down. Suggestions for the watch throughout Baselworld this yr was exceedingly optimistic, however it will likely be fascinating to see how the watch performs over the lengthy haul. I can simply think about this watch turning into a cult favourite for longtime followers of Kari and his workforce; on the similar time, it’s a timepiece that’s unlikely to be somebody’s first Voutilainen. Regardless of dial work being one of many defining traits for a Voutilainen timepiece, this mannequin utterly eschews that think about favor of demonstrating Voutilainen and his workers’s immense expertise in motion design and ending.
The Voutilainen 28ti is proscribed to eight complete items in titanium. Pricing obtainable upon request.
See the Voutilainen 28ti at WatchTime New York 2019 on October 25 – 26 — get your tickets now!