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At his inauguration, President Joe Biden has reignited an old debate: Should a President wear a luxury watch or keep it humble with something affordable? As reported in the New York Times, Biden wore a steel Rolex Datejust (blue dial, smooth bezel) that retails for around $7,000 — a price tag some would find excessive, especially in such an economically uncertain time. In recent decades, presidents have mostly taken to wearing the humble likes of Timex or Shinola and though Presidential flexes were more common and bipartisan back in the day when Eisenhower and LBJ wore Rolexes, Trump was seen with a few, including Patek and Vacheron in more recent years.
The Rolex Datejust appears to be a new piece for Biden, and as far as the achievement-to-reward ratio goes, I don’t think I’d classify the Datejust as “excessive.” It’s definitely not Biden’s first watch, as he’s famously been seen wearing both an Omega Speedmaster Professional and an Omega Seamas..
Just released by Zenith is the brand new Chronomaster Sport, launching as a duo of ceramic bezel chronographs that feature the newly updated El Primero 3600 calibre. What we have with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is a luxury chronograph with an attractive mainstream design but a movement that will impress even the most jaded or seasoned watch enthusiast. Equipped with a modern version of its “Striking 10th” movement, which allows the user to measure time down to 1/10th of a second, the Chronomaster Sport leans into what makes the high-beat El Primero so special.
As of late, the Zenith El Primero has been lacking options that land somewhere between the vintage-inspired Chronomaster Revival pieces and the highly contemporary, stylized Defy El Primero collection. Bearing a likeness to a distant cousin in the Rolex Daytona, these two debut Chronomaster Sport pieces are all Zenith once you take a closer look and appreciate the watchmaking prowess behind it. Though it draws inspiration fr..
Daring haute horlogerie brand MB&F has become an enthusiast favorite over its relatively young history, both for its outside-the-box movement designs and its continuing efforts to blur the line between watchmaking and modern sculpture. One of the brand’s most extreme examples of this philosophy in recent years is the Horological Machine No. 9 “Flow,” or HM9. Designed to evoke the sleek Streamline Moderne forms of the ‘30s and ‘40s, the aerodynamic “triple teardrop” form of the HM9 also contains what MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser claims is the brand’s most beautiful movement to date. To celebrate this intricate work of design, MB&F has returned to the HM9 with a new interpretation designed to shine a spotlight directly on this movement. The new limited edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 9 Sapphire Vision, or MB&F HM9-SV, reimagines one of the brand’s sleekest forms with a dazzlingly complex sapphire case.
The 57mm by 47mm by 23mm case of the limited edition MB&F HM9-SV is likely one..
Haute horlogerie brand De Bethune has built its reputation on two very different personalities. Half of its offerings are modern interpretations of traditional designs, with hallmarks like slim Roman numerals and Breguet hands rendered in exacting quality. The other half are wild, futuristic visions, with a recurring “Star Trek” inspired delta bridge motif and a penchant for avant-garde floating case concepts. While both sides of the brand have their own followings, rarely if ever do the two personalities meet. De Bethune’s first major release of 2021 looks to change that, with a theatrical two dial rotating case design that allows wearers to choose between aesthetics on a whim. The new De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon combines both halves of the brand’s dual personality into one dramatic design, while also including a series of unique complications.
The 42.8mm Grade 5 titanium case of the De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon follows the brand’s floating case design philosophy wit..
Over the past several years, boutique haute horlogerie brand Louis Moinet has turned its attention increasingly toward what’s probably best described as “high-complication spectacle” in its designs, creating yet more fanciful concepts in the process. Its latest release, the limited-edition Louis Moinet Space Revolution watch, takes this trend to the extreme, creating what the brand claims is the world’s first flying satellite double-tourbillon with each tourbillon rotating in opposite directions. Check the video below to see that in action.
While the sight of two orbiting flying tourbillons is dramatic enough (the sort of visual drama that only exists in ultra-high-end watchmaking), Louis Moinet knows the obvious: The fortunate folks buying this sort of a watch are always on the hunt for the most entertaining and the first-ever. Hence, the spaceships and the opposed direction of rotation. You see, over the last 20 years that the company has been run by the exceedingly passionate Jean-..
2021 marks the 70th anniversary for Luminor, Panerai’s patented tritium based lume formula that later lent its name to the Luminor watch series. To celebrate this milestone, the Italian brand’s first major release of the year is a rugged, mordernist celebration of this signature material designed in concert with champion free diver and Panerai ambassador Guillaume Néry. With unique materials and a moody, black on gray look, the limited edition Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm – Guillaume Néry Edition offers a massive 70 year warranty while offering a glimpse into the future of one of the brand’s emblematic designs.
The 44mm case of the Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm – Guillaume Néry Edition follows the same classic form of the standard Luminor, with the cushion shape accented by a sandblasted laser sintered titanium finish. This darker matte material adds a more serious and purposeful feel to the soft and rounded form, while the crown, bridge lever, and narrow smooth bezel are capped with a b..
Though I spent hands-on time with this Ming 27.01 last summer, I waited to publish this until I knew another batch of the watch was being made available. Ming does not need any help in selling these watches, and this isn’t sponsored or promoted in any way by them; my intention is to alert any of our readers who have been hoping to buy a Ming 27.01 at retail. The final 50 pieces of the 27.01 (and 75 pieces of the 27.02) will go for sale on January 22 and 3am GMT (which is January 21 at 7pm PST). Anyone interested can find the 27.01 page here at ming.watch.
In the short three-and-a-half years since debuting its inaugural 17.01, Ming has achieved the kind of success that just about every start-up, microbrand, indie, whatever you want to call them, dreams of from day one. Released last year, the 27.01 was the vanguard piece for not just the brand’s “second-generation” design language but also served as an entry-level ultra-thin watch from an independent brand, even though it carries a pri..
Independent brand Oris is no stranger to paying tribute to historic figures with its limited editions, with special releases over the past few years honoring everyone from jazz legend John Coltrane to baseball great Roberto Clemente. One of the most heroic of Oris’ subjects is decorated U.S. Navy Master Diver Carl Brashear, who since 2016 has inspired two dramatic bronze reimaginings of the vintage inflected Divers Sixty-Five dive watch series. For its third Brashear-inspired model, Oris not only debuts a unique aftermarket strap partnership but also introduces the in-house Calibre 401 small seconds movement for the first time. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition is a handsomely nautical combination of classic Oris diver elements with new mechanical innovations.
The 40mm bronze case of the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition follows the same clean, midcentury diver form as the standard Divers Sixty-Five, but the warmth of bronze gives this design an added dimension..
Boutique brand Urwerk has never been one to shy away from fanciful concepts, with past designs inspired heavily by “Star Wars” and a recurring spot on the wrist of Robert Downey Jr. in his role as the high tech superhero Iron Man. It isn’t all about spaceships and robot suits for Urwerk, however, as for the second time the brand has designed a new limited edition variant with a decidedly more prehistoric feel. With a unique scaly case texture inspired by the fearsome Tyrannosaurus rex, the limited edition Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex adds a visceral, primal edge to one of the brand’s signature designs.
The unorthodox, angular 41mm claw shaped form of the limited edition Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex is shared with the rest of the UR-100V line, but the material and finishing are both totally unique. The main body of the case is made from bronze, with a bespoke alloy that results in a darker and more even patina than most bronze cases. The case is then run through a computer controlled milling station t..
Max Busser (founder of MB&F) is the father of contemporary high-end wristwatch collaborations. Today, aBlogtoWatch takes another look at one of his more recent collaboration watches — with H. Moser & Cie, nicely combining their joint talents. This is the green-dialed version of the H. Moser & Cie X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon limited edition watch that debuted in 2020 (on aBlogtoWatch here) and is part of a set of 15 pieces per dial color (of, I think, five dial colors).
The watch is very much a combination of both parts and design elements from MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. For this design exercise, it is H. Moser & Cie that got the main title credit, probably because the watch is mainly being sold as an H. Moser & Cie product in sales and distribution terms. That is one of the most interesting things to consider as collaboration products continue to mature and penetrate the market: How are collectors supposed to even mentally categorize these often-marvelous timepieces? In this..